Bánh Cuốn Tây Sơn - Ms.Smile FOOD

Rolled at the counter and handed over ready to eat: rice paper around a grilled pork skewer with pork sausage, fermented nem chua, boiled duck egg, a crisp ram roll, rau răm, white basil, perilla, lettuce and cucumber — dipped in the house peanut sauce.

The roll-your-own version on a small bamboo tray with two large square rice papers, for one or two people: grilled pork skewers, pork sausage, nem chua, boiled duck egg, crisp ram, herbs, lettuce and cucumber, and the peanut dip.

The full tray for two or three, with four large square rice papers: grilled pork skewers, pork sausage, nem chua, boiled duck egg, crisp ram, herbs, lettuce and cucumber, and the peanut dip. Everyone rolls their own at the table.

The same ready-rolled special, built on grilled beef wrapped in wild betel leaf: pork sausage, nem chua, boiled duck egg, a crisp ram roll, rau răm, white basil, perilla, lettuce and cucumber, with the house peanut sauce.

Small roll-your-own tray for one or two, with two large square rice papers and skewers of beef wrapped in wild betel leaf, plus pork sausage, nem chua, boiled duck egg, crisp ram, herbs, lettuce, cucumber and the peanut dip.

The biggest tray on the board: four large square rice papers and a full spread of beef skewers in wild betel leaf, pork sausage, nem chua, boiled duck egg, crisp ram, herbs, lettuce, cucumber and the peanut dip, for two or three.

2 ready-rolled grilled-pork rolls + 1 calamansi honey tea.

1 beef roll + 1 grilled-pork roll + 1 calamansi honey tea.

2 beef-in-betel-leaf rolls + 1 calamansi honey tea.

1 small grilled-pork mẹt tray + 1 bánh bèo + 2 calamansi honey teas.

1 small beef-in-betel-leaf mẹt tray + 1 bánh bèo + 2 calamansi honey teas.

1 small grilled-pork mẹt tray + 1 green-mango tré salad + 1 bánh bèo + 2 calamansi honey teas.

1 small beef-in-betel-leaf mẹt tray + 1 bánh bèo + 1 freshwater-shrimp chả ram + 2 calamansi honey teas.

1 small beef-in-betel-leaf mẹt tray + 1 bánh bèo + 1 green-mango tré salad + 1 freshwater-shrimp chả ram + 3 calamansi honey teas.

1 large grilled-pork mẹt tray + 1 green-mango tré salad + 1 freshwater-shrimp chả ram + 1 bánh bèo + 3 calamansi honey teas.

The biggest set: 1 large beef-in-betel-leaf mẹt tray + 1 green-mango tré salad + 1 freshwater-shrimp chả ram + 1 bánh bèo + 3 calamansi honey teas.

A bowl of fresh rice noodles with a grilled pork skewer, slices of pork sausage, crisp ram, peanuts, herbs and cucumber, dressed with the sweet-sour dip.

Five little bowls of steamed rice cake served hot under a shrimp-and-pork sauce, scattered with chives, with a sour-sweet-spicy dip on the side. The rice comes from Tây Sơn's dry hillside paddies, which is what makes the cakes light and springy. Ask for the dip mild if you prefer.

Tré — pig's head and ear cured with toasted rice powder, ginger and galangal — tossed with green mango, herbs and peanuts. Crunchy and not at all rich, with a sour-spicy dip and a sheet of crisp sesame rice cracker.

Small freshwater shrimp — sweet and rich — rolled with a little pork, pepper and spring onion in a rice paper made for frying, so the roll shatters when you bite it. Served with lettuce, cucumber, rice paper for wrapping and a dip.

Sheets of fine woven rice vermicelli brushed with chive oil, topped with grilled meat, a crisp ram roll, herbs and cucumber, with the sweet-sour dip that belongs to bánh hỏi. One portion, one person.

The same noodle bowl built on skewers of beef wrapped in wild betel leaf, with pork sausage, crisp ram, peanuts, herbs, cucumber and the sweet-sour dip.

The bigger version of the mango salad: tré plus fermented nem chua and sliced pork sausage, with green mango, herbs and peanuts, a sour-spicy dip and a sesame rice cracker.

The skewers on their own, straight off the grill, on a bed of lettuce and herbs with cucumber and a dip — order them to add to a tray or eat as they are.

Beef wrapped in wild betel leaf and grilled until the leaf chars and perfumes the meat, on lettuce and herbs with cucumber and a dip.

Iced green tea with calamansi and honey, served in a jar — the drink that comes inside every one of the ten combos.

The thick square rice paper the mẹt trays are rolled with. It has to be dipped in water before it will roll.

Round hand-spread rice crackers studded with sesame, sun-dried rather than oven-dried, which is what makes them snap. Toast them over a flame before eating.

A whole roll of pork sausage from Chợ Huyện in Bình Định, the district market that made this trade its name. Made from meat kept frozen until it is ground, which is what gives the sausage its bounce without preservatives.

A whole roll of nem chua wrapped in guava leaves — not banana, not mango: guava leaf is what ferments it best. Eat it raw, sliced, or grill it. Keep it chilled and finish within a week of opening the leaves.

Two rolls of tré: pig's head and ear boiled just short of soft so they stay crunchy, tossed with toasted rice powder, ginger and galangal, then wrapped tight in guava leaves to ferment.

The old-style bundle, wrapped in rice straw. It runs warmer than the guava-leaf version, so it ferments faster and does not keep as long.

A 0.5 kg pack of about 80–100 unfried rolls to take home. Keeps a month in the freezer; let them lose their chill, then deep-fry or use an air fryer.

The peanut-and-fish-sauce dip that the Tây Sơn roll is built around, bottled to take home. Made without preservatives, so keep it cold and use it quickly.